The Robbi Route

April 23-27, 2025

I have now been home in the USA for exactly a week.  I have been dragging my feet in writing and posting this summation of my last few days in Spain – a hesitancy due perhaps from not wanting this adventure to end…  For now, here’s the metaphorical period at the end of this sentence.

Wednesday, April 23, was a travel day with a four hour train from Santiago de Compostela to León, an hour layover and then another four and half hour train ride to Valencia.  

As I chugged away from Galicia (“Green Spain”) it became increasing more sunny and temperatures rose.  The scenery was stunning and kept my attention even though I was fatigued and sleepy.  So many spring blooms, green undulating hillsides, rushing rivers, dense forests and yellow fields of canola flowers!!  We traveled along side quaint villages, tiny hamlets and through bigger cities like Cordoba and Madrid.

Once I disembarked my train in Valencia, it was a twenty minute walk until I was reunited with my hijo y su novia (son and his girlfriend)!   It was late but I was hungry so W and I headed a few blocks over to Honest Food where I had an incredibly delicious Mediterranean bowl with peri peri spiced honey chicken!  

I was thrilled to be able to unpack my backpack and stay put for a couple of days, occupying W & K’s spare bedroom of their spacious apartment in the fun and vibrant Russafa neighborhood.  I still managed to walk 7.11 miles despite being in transit much of the day.

We enjoyed a slow Thursday morning sipping breakfast smoothies before heading out for a leisurely café con leche and stroll through their local Mercado for dinner supplies.  

And it didn’t hurt my feelings one bit to hit up yet another public market later for lunch since they are a favorite go to destination for me when traveling in Spain!  From a Trip Advisor review, “The Central Market is located at the Plaza del Mercado, opposite the Lonja de la Seda (the Silk Exchange). The construction of this Modernist building was started in 1914 and the architects were Francesc Guardia and Alexandre Soler. These architects studied in Barcelona and collaborated with the famous Catalan architect Domenech I Montaner. In 1928 King Alfonso XIII inaugurated the building, which occupies a space of 8000 square meters. Today the building is still being renovated under the direction of Horacio Fernandez del Castillo. The center of the building has a big cupola that is topped with a weather vane.”

We enjoyed several tasty (and overpriced) tapas at Central Bar by Richard Camarena of Michelin Star fame, after waiting a half hour in line.  The hustle, bustle and hum all around us was electrifying.

Later we also went through Parque Central – a hop, skip and a jump away and a pivotal persuasion for W & K’s choice in leasing their apartment!  What an Amazing and versatile wonderland!!!  This park is near the train station and within it’s fifty six acres of meandering paths are massive rose gardens, archway trellises covered in purple wisteria, water features, playgrounds, picnicking spaces, benches, athletic fields and courts – surrounded by trees and shrubs in a variety of heights and shapes!  Yet to come will be construction of a grassy lawn over some of the functioning railways to include an amphitheater!!!  

A perfectly prepared salmon dinner by Chef W at home rivaled any culinary hot spot in Spain! Walking mileage ended up being  8.6 miles!

On Friday, April 25, W prepared an itinerary which had us walking through winding, charming and charismatic streets of the El Carmen neighborhood, Centro, several plazas and by the Valencia Cathedral of Gothic, Romanesque and Baroque architectural style.  This awe inspiring cathedral was built on the site of an earlier mosque, and was begun in the 13th century, with several changes and additions before it was finished in the 17th century.  The “Holy Grail” is housed in the Chapel of the Holy Chalice and is believed to be THE cup used by Jesus Christ in his Last Supper with the disciples.

We revived our energy and senses with a scrumptious tomato salad!  

W and I put on more mileage by walking through a portion of The Turia Garden – one of the largest urban parks in Spain. It runs through the city – six miles of green space with areas to relax, event space, sports fields, foot and cycling paths, as well as the occasional cafe.  This park is built on the former riverbed of the Turia, whose course was altered to prevent constant flooding in the city. After a devastating flood in 1957, the Turia’s course was diverted south of the city, leaving a huge tract of land crossing the city west to east, bordering the historical center. Several urban planners and landscapists designed different sections of the park with palm and orange trees, rose gardens, fountains and pine woods, aromatic plants and ponds.  There are also boats for hire and skating spaces.

Supẽr Bueno is a Grande “Gulliver ” park where kiddos can climb onto the fingers, hair and legs of a Huge, (230 foot) recumbent “giant” and slide down them like Lilliputians!!

Here you also find the City of Arts and Sciences and The Palau de la Música.  Small, swan-shaped boats are for hire in Cabecera Park. The ponds surrounding the City of Arts and Sciences also rent out water walking balls and canoes in the summer.

“The Turia Garden is crossed by eighteen historical bridges from different periods and architectural styles including San José (17th century), Serranos (16th century), Trinidad (15th century), El Real (16th century) and El Mar (16th century). More recent bridges are the Puente de la Exposición, 9 d’Octubre, Las Flores and l’Assut d’Or, designed by Santiago Calatrava; the Las Artes bridge, next to the IVAM (Valencian Institute of Modern Art), by Norman Foster; and the Ángel Custodio bridge, by Arturo Piera.  The Serranos Towers, a gate in the old city walls that surrounded Valencia, has been converted into a wonderful viewpoint over the historical centre and gardens.” (visitvalencia.com) Day’s mileage:  9.1 miles.

Saturday we again enjoyed a leisurely morning with banana protein pancakes prepared by Chef K as well as nutrition packed fruit smoothies.  We headed out into the neighborhood together and then separated as W & K headed to a wine festival and I navigated to Rose Beauty for a “spa pedicure” service graciously set up for me by K!!!  It was sorely needed and much appreciated, the service was friendly and attentive, plus I had two great café con leches!!  

The plan was to meet up at Turia Gardens where wine was flowing, musica entertained and multitudes enjoyed a super sunny day together eating cheese and cured meats!! Instead, I was smuggled inside and soon I was also feeling the fiesta vibe!  I met W & K’s friends who are also a bit surrogate parents to them in this foreign land.  They hail from Sacramento and now make Valencia their home.  It warmed my heart to meet them and be a part of their Spanish circle of kindred spirits!

And as if that wasn’t enough, we stopped off at the apartment to change gears, pack a few supplies and in no time at all we were on a beach bound bus headed to “Kite Festival, “a day full of colour, fun and sea breeze, courtesy of Valencia Community Kite Club!!” (visitvalencia.com).  There were mega kites staked into the ground in shapes of whales, squid and shrimp, many professional kite magicians as well as amateurs in a sea of people sporting skin in the sun!  So fun!!!  And it was 77°!! 

We stopped on the way home for some amazing Mexican fare at El Huey.  It was hard to put head on pillow after such a wonderful day, and knowing my visit with W & K and to Spain was coming to an end.  I would leave Sunday before they were awake and head by taxi to the airport.  We did get in 9.5 miles.

Sunday had me flying to Paris.  There was enough time for me to take the bus from our plane to the terminal, another bus to a different terminal, and to buy a snack before heading for Seattle. I was so happy to see Handsome Hubby who has been amazingly supportive of my independent travel and Camino obsession.  And, after being awake twenty two hours, to sleep in a Big Bed!!  Despite all of the travel, I still managed to walk 3.7 miles.  

There are always so many mixed emotions when I return home from a pilgrimage, and it will take me some time to sort through them. Thanks for coming along on the journey!!